It is the ultimate oxymoron: French baguettes from a machine! Did I say French? baguettes? and machine? in the same sentence! Apparently Baker Jean-Louis Hecht thinks baguettes can be dispensed from a vending machine the way banks issue money via ATMs. But I say NON! Why?
Is he breaking the law? France enacted a Bread Law in 1993 noting that all “baguettes de tradition must be mixed, kneaded, leavened and baked on premises - never frozen – and must be additive free and contain only 4 ingredients: wheat flour, water, salt, and yeast.
The Boulangerie et Patisserie de Paris, in Bercy (page 223 in PARIS By The Numbers) teaches young chefs all the proper skills to make baguettes.
First, let’s say congratulations to Baker Pascal Barillon (Au Levain d’Antan, in Montmartre, 18e.) who has won the 2011 Grand Prix de la Baguette de Tradition Francaise de la Ville de Paris.
He was awarded his prize by a panel of experts from the Chambre Professionelle des Artisans Boulangers Patisseries de Paris. Each entry was judged on size, quality, smell, taste, and texture. 174 baguettes were entered. Each measured 55-70cm and weighed in at 240-310g. Judging was tough – can you believe that 38 Bakers were disqualified by failing the dimensions category! I wonder what the judges and Bakers think about these machine-dough-baguettes at 1 Euro each?!
Previous winners (found in PARIS By The Numbers) are: 2010, Djibril Bodian, Le Grenier a Paris (18e.) 2009, Franck Tombard, Le Grenier de Felix (15e.) 2008, Anis Bouabsa, Au Duc de la Chapelle (18e) 2007, Arnaud Delmontel (9e) 2006, Jean-Pierre Cohier (8e)
I have had the pleasure of meeting many Paris chefs (this is me and Chef Christian Constant in his kitchen), patissiers, restaurant owners,
and artisans and know that if I cringe at the thought of getting bread-by-machine, I can only imagine their total disregard for something like Hecht’s bread dispenser- so anti-French and capitalistic.
In answer to the question of why? He THINKS that there is a need among clubbers, shift workers, and anyone else who want to travel to the 19th arrondissement for bread 24/7 nonstop. I SAY NON! WHAT DO YOU SAY?
You’ll find 42 Markets and 71 Boulangeries et Fromageries in PARIS By The Numbers… no need to eat a baguette from a machine.
I am now hungry for a warm baguette … time to start mixing the flour, water, yeast and salt!
Merci beaucoup!
